Title

Home
Articles Search
door

Articles search results for door

Showing 1 to 20 of 59 articles

This window channel is now supplied without water drain holes

The drain holes can be identified as the larger 6.5mm holes in the chromium plated glazing strip.

The smaller holes in the glazing strip are used for fastenings to affix the channel and glazing strip to the door frame.

TO MAKE DRAIN HOLES IN CHANNEL;
Use chromium plated glazing strip as a template.

Mark drain holes on closed face of Channel.

Using a 3mm drill bit, carefully drill pilot holes through closed face of channel as marked.

10 fixings per trim.
Evenly spaced along each straight section. Not on the curved parts.
Nos 1&10 are slide on, all others are the pop on type the holes are drilled 1/8"

10 fixings per trim – Evenly spaced along each straight section.
Not on the curved parts (corners)
Numbers 1 & 10 are slide on, all the others are pop on type.
The holes are drilled 1/8”

The Tex Universal Door Mirror can be fitted to a wide range of cars and light vans without having to remove door panels, by following the instructions outlined below:

With the aid of a second person, locate a clear unobstructed position for the door mirror when viewed from the driving seat.

SUSPENSION - Basic set-up method

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

Suspension - Basic set-up method

part numbers: TOOL10, TOOL11, HILO, HILO-01

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

This is one of those subjects viewed as a ‘black art’, largely because of lack of understanding and confusion. The confusion part is because folk encompass the whole suspension set-up deal with suspension arrangement and design, lack of understanding instilling terror at the thought of ‘fiddling’ with the suspension components. The latter also fuelled by the knowledge that expensive specialist measuring equipment is needed. Well, there is no black art – you can work the magic. More a case of a long day...

Valve Guides - Materials and Useage

Material choices for guides are down to two distinct types - cast iron and bronze. Yes, cast iron. NOT steel as described in many adverts and by vendors. Never have been, never will be. These are as fitted to the various A-series cylinder heads as standard in all applications. Cast iron is used because it is a very dissimilar metal from any used in valve manufacture - important to eliminate galling that causes seizure of the valves in the guides - is softer, yet resilient enough to wear well. Bronze, on the other hand, is a very general description as there are a variety of 'bronzes' used by various folk. In days gone by, the bronze base type used was 'PB1' (also known as 'Navy Bronze') - a phosphor-bronze alloy that was very orange in colour, and very soft, used primarily in race engines. Unfortunately they wore out very quickly. Silicone-brass content bronze is probably the most popular now - often with a high aluminium or manganese content - is very yellow/gold in colour.

Engine - Identification Data Updated

If you have the engine tag still attached to the engine - just in front/below the thermostat housing - or perhaps the original engine number in the log book then the following should help you determine which engine you have. For Metro units, see 'Engine - Metro identification data'. Original engine identification numbers 850cc 8A Austin up to 25000 8MB Morris up to 25000 8AM Austin & Morris 25000 onwards 8AH Austin & Morris Automatic 8AJ Austin & Morris closed circuit breathing 8AK Austin & Morris automatic with closed circuit breathing 8WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf 8AC Moke 85H/101 All variants 1969 onwards Note: third suffix letter denotes compression type, L = Low, H = High, e.g. 8AM/U/H101 denotes high compression. 998cc 9WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2, pre closed circuit breathing 9AD Austin, Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2 with remote type gearbox and closed

Engine - Running in Procedure

This is another of those subjects that crops up on the message board frequently. I am constantly surprised by the number of engine builders - or people who charge other folk for building engines at any rate - that never hand out such an information sheet. It seems pretty daft to me that having taken a wad of money off of a customer for an engine you've lovingly put together, you'd want to help that person get the very best out of the engine. And the running/breaking in procedure is absolutely crucial. It at least ensures no damage is incurred when the engine first bursts into life. A collection of the usual suspects have explained their own methods on the board, along with various others - many of which probably work just as well for them, a few which are down-right dubious. Following is a sheet I administer with every customer engine I build.

The red lights went out after a short wait and the 2005 season was underway. I held position and went early on the attack,

It seems remarkable, but a winter break of over six months is never enough time to prepare a racing car! The truth is, at long last I've completely refurbished the hall, stairs and landing at home. That concludes a 7 and a half year ...

Engine - Identification data

KNOW YOUR MINI TYPE

This is to help you understand which mini you own from a spare parts point of view. Officially There were only Mk1/Mk2 and Mk3 on sales brochures but the Mk4 was introduced by Keith Dodd in 1976 to help people understand the main parts changes. From here we eventually got to MK7

What mini do you own-Make your Mark from this list Confused what mini you own,...

Valve guides - Materials and usage

Material choices for guides are down to two distinct types - cast iron and bronze. Yes, cast iron. NOT steel as described in many adverts and by vendors.

Never have been, never will be. These are as fitted to the various A-series cylinder heads as standard in all applications. Cast iron is used because it is a very dissimilar metal from any used in valve manufacture - important to eliminate galling that causes seizure of the valves in the guides - is softer, yet resilient enough to wear well. Bronze, on the other hand, is a very general description as there are a variety of 'bronzes' used by various folk. In days gone by, the bronze base type used was 'PB1' (also known as 'Navy Bronze') - a phosphor-bronze alloy that was very orange in colour, and very soft, used primarily in race engines.

There was an international flavour to rounds 2 and 3 of the Mighty Minis Championship as for the first time in 4 years it visited the French track of Croix-En-Ternois.

Just an hours drive South East of Calais, this small circuit consists manly of tight hairpins connected to a fast main straight which makes overtaking notoriously...

The come down after the Spa weekend was abrupt and for a week I felt little enthusiasm to even determine what had to be done, let alone start doing it! Fortunately my mood lightened, and with a week to go before the Silverstone Championship round I got down to it. Well, to be honest I took the car down to Altered Images on the Sunday afternoon, and Peter Vickers cast his diagnostic eye over the car. The front...

Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks making it a true mini. The rocker cover seals perished along with a diff output shaft seal. The leaks now rectified, Duckhams oil was used to refill the engine.

My own Twin point by Keith Dodd 1st June 2006 making it a true Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks mini.

Having made some improvements and progress at Croft the decision now was – what to do next? The increase in toe-out on the rear, despite being a small amount, seemed to help get the car turned better. Should I add more? In my 'softly softly' approach to getting the car sorted so I don't loose my way I contemplated this for a while and decided that on the whole it would be better to go to Snetterton with the car as it finished at Croft....

Once again I found myself swamped with work causing the now familiar last minute rush to check the race car over before departing to Donnington. This race weekend was going to be a very different affair than what has become the norm. Karin was having to work the weekend, my 'opposition' in my class and in another Clubby - Steve (Young) - has resigned himself to doing the last race of the year at Oulton park due to work pressures, and stats man and hospitality provider Keith (Manning – now Otto v

At the end of 2007 we were kindly invited up to the British Motor Heritage centre in Witney scheduled for the end of January. As luck would have it, this nicely coincided with the latest build of Mini Bodyshells.

Having donned our safety glasses our tour began. Anyone at this point that had visions of an automated production line, with robots and machines doing most of the work was going to be disappointed.

Articles search results for door

Contact Mini Spares

Store Details:

Classic Mini Brochure & Manuals